The Ultimate Guide to Ruby Gemstone Cuts (Oval, Pear, Princess)

When buying a Ruby, most people focus on color and clarity, but cut is equally important. The way a ruby is cut determines its brilliance, sparkle, and how it looks in a piece of jewelry. Unlike diamonds, rubies are often cut to maximize color and weight rather than strict symmetry, which makes choosing the right cut essential.

In this guide, we’ll explore three of the most popular ruby cuts—Oval, Pear, and Princess—and why they’re favorites among jewelers and collectors.

1. Oval Cut Ruby

The oval cut is one of the most classic and versatile shapes for rubies. It’s an elongated version of the round cut, offering a balance of brilliance and surface area.

Why Choose an Oval Cut Ruby?

  • Elegant and Timeless: Works well in vintage and modern jewelry.
  • Makes the Stone Look Larger: The elongated shape gives the illusion of a bigger gemstone.
  • Ideal for Rings and Pendants: Perfect for engagement rings and center stones in necklaces.

Best Setting for Oval Rubies

Oval rubies look stunning in solitaire settings or surrounded by a halo of diamonds for extra sparkle.

2. Pear Cut Ruby

Also known as the teardrop cut, the pear shape combines the brilliance of a round cut with the elongation of a marquise.

Why Choose a Pear Cut Ruby?

  • Unique and Stylish: Ideal for those who want something different.
  • Flattering Shape: The pointed end elongates the finger, making it a popular choice for rings.
  • Versatile Orientation: Can be set pointing up or down, adding creative options for jewelry design.

Best Setting for Pear Rubies

Looks beautiful as a pendant or in an east-west ring design. Pairing with side stones enhances its elegance.

3. Princess Cut Ruby

The princess cut is a square or rectangular shape with sharp corners, known for its modern, geometric appeal.

Why Choose a Princess Cut Ruby?

  • Contemporary Style: Perfect for those who love sleek, modern designs.
  • Brilliant Faceting: Maximizes sparkle when viewed from the top.
  • Ideal for Cluster Settings: Works well in eternity bands or multi-stone rings.

Best Setting for Princess Rubies

Princess-cut rubies are perfect for channel settings or halo engagement rings, often combined with diamonds for a luxurious look.

How to Choose the Right ruby cut for You

  • For Classic Elegance: Choose Oval.
  • For Bold and Unique Designs: Go for Pear.
  • For Modern, Edgy Looks: Pick Princess.

When choosing a cut, also consider:

  • The color distribution of the ruby (cuts can affect color saturation).
  • The type of jewelry (rings, pendants, earrings).
  • Your personal style.

The cut of a ruby isn’t just about shape—it’s about how the gemstone comes to life in your jewelry. Whether you prefer the timeless Oval, the elegant Pear, or the chic Princess, the right cut can enhance a ruby’s natural beauty and brilliance.

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